Saturday, July 30, 2005

rave and slave

How can people file grocery shopping away as a chore? Especially when there is a Whole Foods popping up every 5 blocks in the city? To me, it’s a privilege to stroll thru the aisles, sniffing dragonfruits and squeezing heirloom tomatoes. My imagination just goes wild! I imagine strawberry and spinach salad to start, roasted fish stuffed with wild veggies and herbs, homemade cream cheese custard with blueberry compote, and then I imagine myself chomping on all those food, and oh! Maybe a nice artichoke salad in between courses, plus a pureed squash soup, and maybe …. Then of course, the thought of dish washing and cleaning usually gets to me, so I give up and head to the butcher counter.

Whole Foods is great for so many wonderful things (artisanal cheeses, fresh veggies, great seafood), but I love them for their steaks. Yeah, Whole Foods steaks are pricey, but damn are they delicious. I’m partial to the rib-eye cut. It’s juicy and flavorful on its own. No need for fancy sauces or marinates.

Steak is also the easiest thing to make. Here’s how: Buy your favorite cut of meat, depending on your preference. Make sure you take it out of the fridge 30 min prior to cooking to let it stand at room temperature. Pat it dry and then season with kosher salt and fresh black pepper. You need quite a bit of salt and a whole lot of ground pepper since the steaks are pretty thick (oh, did I mention you should get a thick steak rather than a thin and wide steak? Well, you should, it retains more moisture).

Heat up your heaviest pan to really really really really hot. Melt some butter (maybe 2 tablespoons) with olive oil. Once your fats start smoking, lay down the steak. DO NOT move or touch or jiggle or poke your steak for 3-4 minutes, no matter how tempted you are to stick a fork in it. Your patience will pay off in the form of a nice flavorful crust and sealed in juices. Then you flip the steak over and cook for another 2 min or so. That’s it! A perfect medium rare steak.
Me secret to a delicious compete meal? Buy some greens, I love swiss chard or spinach. Mince some garlic. Throw the garlic and the greens into the steak pan – you know, the one with butter, olive oil, and rendered steak fat. Sautee and serve with the steak.

Simple, elegant, and your boyfriend will rave and be your slave for the night. Oh yeah, and there are 3 dishes to wash later.

Wednesday, July 27, 2005

heat and wine

It is so hot. So hot. SO HOT in NYC for the last 3 days. It’s so hot that by the time I get out of the train and amble home, I’ve lost 5 pounds from sweat pouring out of pores I didn’t know I had, like toe knuckle and earlobe. It’s too hot to drink my usual glass of red wine – too heavy and too room temperature (which is about 80 degrees in my apt, no thanks to the weak AC circulating warm air so faithfully). This is when I pop open a brachetto d’acqui. Yes, I know, it’s really a dessert wine, but since I’m not sophisticated enough to pair food with wine, I happily drink this beautiful bubbly with everything. Besides, I’m forever pushing bubbly wines (champagne, prosecco) as dinner wines.


Brachettos are made in the Piedmont region of Italy. It’s a red wine, but it's incredibly light - lighter than some chardonnays. Brachettos have a slightly honey flavor, but less sweet than most moscatos. I love watching the tiny bubbles fizzle and pop around the ruby liquid. Paired with some dark chocolate, you just can’t ooze more romance than that.

But when I really want to cool off, I reach for a beer. Not ale, not lager, but a bottle of good ol’ pilsner. But that’s another entry.

Tuesday, July 26, 2005

sunday afternoon part II

I admit, I love brunch. I know, it’s so contrived. But really, nothing beats a yummy meal with your friends on a nice New York Sunday afternoon over bloody maries (marys? mary’s?) Alright, I love brunch because I LOVE bloody maries-marys-mary’s.

A great bloody mary is probably the best cocktail out there. It’s all at once tart, spicy, salty, sweet (kind of like Thai food now I think about it). But a great bloody is more rare than Michael Jackson on a real date. Bloodies should be chock full of horse radish, Tabasco, and black pepper without being thick and mealy. The tomato juice should be tart and salty with a slight hint of the fruit’s (yes, it’s a fruit) natural sweetness, but not cloying sweet (*cough* Pastis/Schiller’s *cough*). There should be some sort of solid chewables accompanying the drink. I’ve tried everything from the tried and true celery stalk to the more adventurous shrimp. But my all time favorite is probably pickled veggies. The sour and salt brine goes so nicely with the tart and spicy cocktail.

Jane serves up a great bloody with their great brunch. It’s spicy, not too thick, tart and garnished with pickled tomatoes, olives, and the requisite celery stalk. The vodka is smooth and leaves no alcohol-fumed aftertaste. The bloody is incredibly addicting and free with brunch! Prune offers an extensive list of bloody variations for brunch. Though the flavor is not as smooth and well blended as Jane, Prune’s bloodies are still delicious and get points for originality. My personal favorite is the Chicago Boxcar – a classic bloody garnished with various pickled lovelies, from radish to green beans to brussel sprouts, rounded off with a shot of beer. YUM!

Being slightly tipsy (okay, drunk) by 3:30 on a Sunday afternoon is so deliciously wicked. Being drunk because of bloodies, that’s just delicious.

Thursday, July 21, 2005

dessert? yes please

I was never one for dessert (surprise!). A glass of port, some dark chocolate, and the occasional cookie, were enough for me. That is, until I met my boyfriend, J-me.

J-me has the worst sweet tooth. He can plow through a cake, chomp through a slice of pie, and slurp through a tall milkshake as quickly as I can chow through a hunk of cheese. But after dating someone who insists a large cookie and a sweet muffin equate breakfast for a year, I slowly, but very surely, came around.

It all started with rock-paper-scissors. J-me and I play this game on Saturday mornings to decide which unfortunate soul will need to climb out of our comfortable bed and get the morning coffee. The first time J-me lost, he brought back coffee from Clinton St. Baking Company and a few surprises. In the brown paper bag waited a blueberry crumb muffin and a citrus oatmeal raisin cookie – that was the size of a saucer. I was of course annoyed, why didn’t you get the delicious savory herb goat cheese muffin, I said. And why did you get the raisin cookie?! You know I hate raisins!!!

But of course, I couldn’t let food sit and not taste. I pulled off a little piece of cookie and popped it in my mouth, then another, then another. It was absolutely wonderful. I’ve always loved the slightly chewy texture of good oatmeal. The raisins kept the cookie moist and added a complex tartness that contrasted well with the buttery flavor.

That morning was the beginning of the end. I now ask for the dessert menu as I munch on my après-meal cheese plate. I now plan my route so that I “happen” by a bakery. Dessert is no longer an afterthought – it’s something to be savored, along with my glass of port.

Tuesday, July 19, 2005

"fast" food

“Fast” recipes are all the rage now. Every food magazine worth its kosher salt is coming out with new sections/supplements/sister magazines filled with delicious dishes a frenzied cook can whip in 30 minutes. But if you actually buckle down and try to recreate one of those recipes, you will find that half of the ingredients, save salt and pepper, are a little more exotic than what an already frenzied person would have on hand. Pancetta? figs? Unsulphured molasses? petit peas? Any given time I may have one of the 8 things you need to complete one dish (okay, I probably would never have petit peas, don’t even know what that is), but never would I have all 8. (I’m a 20 something New Yorker living in a shoebox disguised as a human dwelling, with unlimited access to delivery and limited access to supermarkets, so I do have an excuse.) By the time I gather all the ingredients required, I could have ordered and digested Village Mingala. The other option is to plan your meals for the week and shop on the weekend. But, I can’t even pick out my shoes for work, let alone think 2 days in advance.

There are a few food basics everyone should have in their fridge and pantry: eggs, some fresh herbs (I’m partial to rosemary or thyme since they don’t rot so quickly and are easy to work with), garlic (again, they don’t go bad). Get a couple of tomatoes, a package of sliced ham, and an onion at the deli on the corner and you got yourself an herb omelet. Me? I like to scramble diced tomatoes with eggs. Get the tomatoes nice and soft so that the juices infuse the scrambled eggs. Add a dash of soy sauce and sesame oil, and voila, homey Taiwanese dish.

Another thing to do in a pinch is fried rice. Take any Chinese stir-fry take-out leftover (garlic pork, broccoli beef, etc), dump it in a wok or pan and heat it up. No oil is necessary since Chinese food is pretty well slicked already. Scoop out your day-old rice from the carton and throw that into the mix. Once the rice starts to brown and harden slightly, crack an egg or two over the wok and mix in. Squirt on some Sriracha and your boyfriend will never know he’s eating leftovers.

Monday, July 18, 2005

sunday afternoon

We all know why Sunday is called the day of rest. What else can you do but rest with a massive headache and a gooey taste in your mouth. Yeah, you were invincible Saturday night, dancing on bar tops and singing with stray cats. But when Sunday rolls around, you're whimpering for your mommy and cursing the sun for being too bright.

You stumble out to find nourishment, hoping the right food combo will calm the storm brewing in your stomach. You have $7 in your wallet from buying one too many $12 mojitos last night. So you drag your sorry butt to Pho Grand.

A nice steaming bowl of pho arrives within seconds of ordering. You dip the thinly sliced beef in Sriracha and Hoisin sauce, waking up those dulled taste buds. You slurp down the broth, fragrant with lemongrass and Thai basil. Warm, filling, delicious.

You top off your late lunch with a glass of their beautifully crafted Vietnamese iced coffee, rich and freshly brewed espresso sweetened with condensed milk. Fully awake now finally (at 4PM) and invincible again. Heck, you're ready to do it all over again next weekend.

Sunday, July 17, 2005

hot hot hot

The other day I saw my favorite chili sauce being used by my favorite chef, Mario Batali. Okay, he's not just my favorite, I idolize him. The man is a genius! Seeing him wielding Sriracha on Iron Chef just reaffirmed my adoration.

I've long known that the greatness of Sriracha has no cultural boundaries. Though Thai in origin, Sriracha has adorned everything in my kitchen from fried rice to empanadas. Want some spice in your pasta? a squirt of Sriracha will take care of it. Bland ribs? no prob, just dab some of that bright red chili sauce and voila!

Sriracha's genius is in its smooth and perfectly blended flavor. There isn't one flavor element that overpowers the others. Tobasco has its vinegar, Chinese chili paste has its garlic, some sauces are too peppery, the others, too sweet. Sriracha is the Goldilocks of chili sauces, just right.

Of course Batali won that round. What can I say, the man is a genius.

Tuesday, July 12, 2005

gari of the gods

Okay, so my friends expected that I would write about the out-of-body experience that was Sushi of Gari. I expected myself to swoon and go on and on about the transcendental experience that was Sushi of Gari. But I hesitated... why? you ask? I didn't think (and still don't) my limited culinary descriptions could justify the restaurant.

Imagine now, the delicate creations of this avant garde artist, which combined mutlicultural cusine with traditional Japanese fare . Have you ever thought of chopping up creamy toro with pungent yellow Korean daikon? Or charring the same toro ever so lightly so that the dark smoky flavor, usually reserved for yakitori, mellows as it melts with the perfectly seasoned sushi rice? Well, Gari had, and the results were unforgettable.

It was the first time I had a purple shrimp (cooked). The texture was more lobster than shrimp. There was tiny roe hidden in the shrimp's belly - the dimension of the flavor was subtle but lingered on and on. There was also salmon topped with grated raw daikon - the pungentness cuts through the fatty fish without masking the taste of the ocean.

It was one of those meals that made you wish your wallet and tummy were big enough to accommodate every thing they can throw at you. Thank god the restaurant is insanely far from my LES abode, or else I would have make-believed I'm in possession of both Gari essentials every other day.

Monday, July 11, 2005

finger lickin

Fried chicken, comforting, simple, humble, and my fav food. If I can eat something every day, it would probably be sushi. But if I can eat something everyday and NOT die of coronary failure, it would be fried chicken (with a nice cold beer) (and stuffing w/gravy) (and collard greens) (and corn bread - really the cake's excuse to be savory). It's an internal battle whenever I see fried chicken on a menu, the battle between the greedy eater and the health-loving conscience. Of course the chubby greedy eater always wins out the emaciated (but healthy) conscience. And so fried chicken is consumed yet again.

I was uptown at my alma mater visiting a friend of mine the other day when I strolled by Miss Mamie's Spoonbread Too with a giant sign that said "Best Fried Chicken and Collard Greens". Oh man, that's the combination code to my stomach.


Settling down in comfy restaurant, I browsed the menu with a nice cold Sugar Hill ale (brewed by Harl
em Brewery, nutty and sweet, delicious). A mini panic attack hit. What to choose! Plain fried chicken or smothered, stuffing or mac and cheese, collard greens? Oh no! I want to devour them all! After much deliberation and almost finishing a whole bottle of Sugar Hill, I settled on the smothered chicken with collard greens and corn bread stuffing. Confident in my choice (and appeased by the fact my co-eaters were ordering all the other stuff I wanted to try), I waited impatiently as my stomach grumbled to the fragrant smells wafting through the restaurant.


The generous platter came out, all smothered in rich, brown gravy. The chicken (I requested for all dark meat of course) was beyond tender. The meat was almost creamy, I imagine from buttermilk. The spices penetrated through the entire piece, every bite exploded with flavor. I loved how the crispy skin softened and flaked in the pool of gravy, deepening the richness and adding texture to the entire dish.

I also loved the assorted sides/apps I tried, notably, the gumbo, collard green spinach. The meal closed with a mug of Miss Mamie's sweet tea - thoroughly refreshing after the hearty meal. The mint tea, lightly sweetened, cleansed the palate - though I was pretty happy to allow the fragrant meal linger.